認識你的原色丹寧:竹節(slub)和霜絮(nep) - 牛仔褲

網誌版:

http://aa10504.blogspot.tw/2016/02/slubnep-heddels.html


前言:


嗨各位版友大家好 我又來了XD

其實我一開始真正想要翻的是今天這篇

因為就是這篇的這兩個單字(slub & nep) 促使我開始去國外網站看丹寧資訊

也開始對丹寧這種布料了解的越來越多 愛的越來越深

在開始今天的翻譯文之前 有一首詩要先請大家欣賞一下:


《寄高員外》

“冷冽蒼黃風似劈，雪骨冰筋滿瑤席。
庭松流污相抵吃，霜絮重裘火無力。
孤峯地爐燒白櫪，龐眉道者應相憶。
倏忽維陽歲雲暮，寂寥不覺成章句。
惟應將寄蕊珠宮，禪剎雲深一來否。”

前蜀 貫休




本文：


Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep
了解你的原色丹寧：竹節感和霜絮感

SEP 9, 2013 |101 PRIMERS |by Dennis DePrimo
6 Comments


When it comes to the realm of raw denim, two of the most pertinent, yet often
misunderstood, characteristics are nep and slub.
在原色丹寧的領域裡，有兩個很類似、經常混淆的特色，就是霜絮感（nep）和竹節感（
slub）。

Though these terms may seem like silly, redundant jargon, we can’t stress
enough the importance of these denim traits. Not only do they affect the feel
and texture of raw jeans, but they also impact the overall fade and evolution
of any pair of denim.
雖然這兩個詞聽起來很無聊，很像專家故意說的一些專業術語，但不得不說這兩個特色在
原色丹寧領域裡非常的重要。它們不只影響了原色牛仔褲的質感，也會影響整件牛仔褲的
色落演變。



Slub
竹節感

http://imgur.com/OH8tRAs
Close up of a raw slub denim
竹節丹寧的特寫

We’ve previously broken down the meanings of slub and slubiness, but in
essence slub refers to denim fabric made with indigo warp yarn which differs
in thickness throughout. When the denim is woven and made into garments, the
result will be a denim without a uniform texture which will have a much
different hand than a denim woven with traditional yarns.
我們先前已經在《竹節感和竹節布料的意思》這篇文章裡解析過這個詞了，竹節布料，事
實上是因為丹寧布料的indigo色經紗粗細不同而造成的。使用這種布料製做出來的丹寧服
飾，手感上會和使用傳統紗線做出來單寧服飾有很大的差異。

In some slubby denims, a technique called loom chatter is employed during the
weaving process to help make the finished fabric even more textured. The
layman’s explanation of loom chatter is that the shuttle looms that are used
to weave the fabric are set to a low tension level while they weave.
在製作竹節丹寧布料的編織過程裡，應用了一種稱作loom chatter的技巧，來使布料的紋
理更豐富。用比較通俗的解釋來說，loom chatter就是指梭織機用比較低的張力強度在紡
織布料。

This lower tension setting makes the looms literally shake while they weave
the denim – an action which, in addition to the naturally uneven nature of
the yarn used to weave the denim, makes the product even more uneven and
textured.
織布機的張力設定得愈低，從字面上來看就表示它們在紡織時震動的愈厲害－除了直接使
用粗細不均勻的紗線去編織丹寧，會有紋理感之外；低張力設定，震動織布機這個行為，
會編織出更有顆粒感和豐富紋理的丹寧布。

As a picture says a thousand words, this detailed look at a pair of Naked and
Famous‘ Big Slub Jeans is a classic example of some fantastic slub fades.
照片自己會說故事，這裡有一個經典的例子，是一張Naked and Famous的大竹節牛仔褲的
超讚色落照片，可以從這件照片裡，看到上述的細節。

http://imgur.com/W4CaQjh
Faded Naked and Famous Big Slub Jeans
Naked and Famous的大竹節牛仔褲色落照

http://imgur.com/pHTJVRw
Slub fading detail on Naked and Famous Big Slub Jeans
Naked and Famous的大竹節牛仔褲的色落細節

http://imgur.com/iBboFjR
Alternate Close up of Naked and Famous Big Slub Jeans
Naked and Famous的大竹節牛仔褲特寫

http://imgur.com/da2iSOD
Selvedge fade on Naked and Famous Big Slub jeans
Naked and Famous的大竹節牛仔褲的布邊色落

Slub will be quite textured and is able to either posses a softer or rougher
feel, depending on the actual cotton used, than most raw denims. Aside from
the difference in texture that slubby denim is noted for, its irregularity in
yarn thickness also tends to result in more interesting fades.
竹節丹寧的紋理感相當豐富，而且依據使用的棉質，它可以比大部分的原色丹寧，更能同
時兼具柔軟及顆粒感。除了竹節丹寧那種特殊的紋理值得注意之外，他不規則的紗線粗度
也會養出非常有趣的色落。

Specifically, these fades tend to run more vertically along the fabric than
horizontally. The reason behind the unusual fading characteristics in slub
denim is very interesting as the vertical fading occurs because the indigo
dyes tend to fade at different rates based on the varying thickness of the
yarn used to produce the denim. This vertical fading characteristic is also
known as Tate-Ochi, or “vertical falls”, in Japanese.
準確地來說，這種布料會產生更多的縱向色落。竹節丹寧會有這種不常見的色落，背後的
原因非常有趣，是因為在生產丹寧布料時，紗線不均勻的粗細的變化導致indigo色落速率
的不一致，所以就產生了縱落。



Nep
霜絮感

Nep has often been confused with slub because of the textural characteristics
that they both share. However, the difference between the two often needs to
be very clearly defined. Have you ever stumbled upon a pair of jeans that
seemed to have little particles of white fluff protruding from the main part
of the garment? It may have looked a little bit like below.
霜絮感和竹節感兩者常常會被搞混，因為他們擁有差不多的紋理特色。但是這兩者之間的
差異是需要被明確的定義的。你有沒有曾經偶然的發現，你的某件牛仔褲，上面有一點一
點小小的白色棉點凸出來？看起來可能有點像下面這張照片。

http://imgur.com/iDI7chm
Close up on horizontal and vertical nep fades.
橫向和縱向的霜絮色落特寫

When a garment is neppy, or has nep, it usually just means that the fabric of
the garment has been woven in a way that some of the cotton fibers extend and
protrude from the main surface. Usually these fabrics tend to posses a “snowy
” look, as if fresh fallen snow is sitting on the surface of the denim. The
texture in this type of denim will be more noticeable on the surface of the
fabric than the peeking glimpses of white in the composition of a slubby
fabric.
當我們說一件服飾是霜絮感的，或他充滿霜絮，其實就是指它的布料上有一些棉纖維凸出
表面。通常這種布料看起來像“雪花”一般，就像有剛降下的雪，落在這件丹寧上一樣。
這類型的紋理，比起偶然才會瞄見的竹節感更顯眼。

Nep denim also possesses some peculiar traits throughout life of the fabric.
It still fades naturally like most raw denim, but the neppy fibers will
become more pronounced in the appearance of the jean; bringing about a
furrier look. One of the most desirable features of a nep denim is their
uncanny ability to fade horizontal, as well as vertically like the snowy nep
denim below.
霜絮丹寧布料也有一些奇異的特點。像是它和其他原色丹寧一樣都會色落，但隨著色落愈
來愈強，布料上的霜絮會愈來愈明顯，使表面看起來更毛茸茸。另一個更吸引人的特色是
，這種丹寧布除了會產生縱向的色落外，它還會產生神秘的橫向色落，就像下面這張照片
一樣。

http://imgur.com/OkL80Gj
Snowy Nep Whiskers
雪花般的霜絮丹寧貓鬚

Loom chatter also plays a role in the production of nep denim. As noted neppy
denim usually has visible fibers exposed from the main surface of the fabric;
fibers which are usually knots and broken fibers within the yarn that occur
as it is spun and then woven. Loom chatter exacerbates the nepping process by
further agitating the fibers and leaving them more exposed through the
shaking and tangling of the yarn while the loom weaves.
Loom chatter這個技巧也會產生霜絮感丹寧。就像前面所提到的，霜絮丹寧上有一些肉眼
可見的纖維暴露在表面；那些纖維在紡紗和紡織的過程中，會破壞紗線裡面的纖維，或使
紗線裡面的纖維打結。當織布機在紡織時，Loom chatter這個技巧因為會震動、纏繞紗線
，使攪動纖維的幅度變大，讓纖維更暴露，加劇了霜絮感的產生。


附上原文連結：
http://goo.gl/cQcsp7


本文結束



後記：

大概有三點想要在後記補充

1.內文裡提到一個詞叫Loom chatter，我不知道該怎麼翻譯它，其實我連這個技巧是啥
都不太清楚，將來希望有高手版友可以幫忙補充。

2.為什麼開頭要請大家欣賞那首詩呢？其實是因為這篇文章裡提到的”nep”這個單字，
在台灣丹寧界似乎沒有一個正式的翻譯，而我想了非常久（這篇文章我好幾個月前就看過
了），一直在思索有沒有更棒的翻譯。目前網路上只看到有人用「棉絮感」來形容這種褲
子，而在那篇文章裡nep這個單字依然沒有被翻譯出來，它依舊保持英文狀態，所以我在
靈光一閃的情況下，想到了這種白色點狀棉絮附著在牛仔褲上，就好像牛仔褲結霜了一樣
，因此我融合了那篇文章形容的棉絮感，成了霜絮這個詞。又剛好發現真的有詩人用過霜
絮這個詞來寫詩，詩裡霜絮的意思是「白棉絮」，這樣的巧合加上意象的符合，最後我決
定把nep denim的翻譯翻成霜絮丹寧。

3.那為什麼slub會翻作竹節呢？這個就不是我自創的啦，這個詞已經被廣為使用了，甚
至有一種東西就叫竹節紗，金斯大也曾經在部落格裡介紹過竹節質感的商品喔！




--