藏青/海軍藍(navy)斜條紋：最實用的領帶 - 西裝

藏青/海軍藍 (navy) 斜條紋：最實用的領帶

from Permanent Style: http://goo.gl/EI3c3d

（翻譯不盡理想，諸多誤謬之處，敬請指教！）

純粹以邏輯的觀點來看，最有用的領帶是深藍色斜條紋。然後是深咖啡色斜紋或酒紅色斜
紋領帶。

首先，深色的領帶比一條淺色的領帶更適合搭配各式服裝。它比較莊重，更有商務特質，
除工作外，也能扮演好與較大膽的服裝搭配的配角工作。

其次，最實用的深色就是深藍色。和灰色和藍色西裝搭配時最為實用，深藍色或銀色領帶
的多樣搭配性都足以應付面試或上台報告的服裝（試試傳統藍色西裝搭配灰色領帶，反之
亦然），也適合搭配其他的圖樣與顏色，如白色、粉紅色、藍色或其他顏色的襯衫和絕大
多數各種顏色的西裝。

然而，深藍在搭配大膽圖樣和顏色的西裝或襯衫時會更好用。義大利紳士們常用一條藍色
領帶和藍色襯衫來搭配如褐色華達呢 (gabardine)、蘇格蘭格紋 (glen plaid)、淺色亞麻
等比較大膽的材質，深藍會比灰色更實穿。

再來，顯著的斜條紋領帶比素面更實用。它可以搭配三種不同圖樣的襯衫、西裝和袋巾，
或是什麼圖樣都沒有。它可以凸顯襯衫圖樣，相當適合搭配顏色明顯的細條紋西裝。斜條
紋的保守樸實但多樣性可以讓幾乎不可能搭在一起的圖樣和對比結合在一塊。而有較大圖
樣的斜條紋領帶，像是有俱樂部部徽紋飾的，會更實用，與襯衫或西裝圖樣絕不衝突，不
過穿搭的場合就會有一點限制。

基於上述原因，一條深藍色斜條紋系絕對是你能擁有的最實用領帶。如果你只有一條領帶
，那就應該是深藍斜條紋領帶。

另外，英國人稱斜條紋領帶為"club stripe"是因為男士穿戴所屬的俱樂部配色的領帶，圖
樣通常是俱樂部部徽上的紋飾 (crest) 而非條紋 (stripe)；而在美國，斜條紋領帶則被
認為是稜紋領帶 (repp ties)，不過，並非意指條紋 (stripe)，而是絲綢的斜紋織造紋理
(diagonal ribbing)。（稜紋"repp"有腐敗、墮落之意）。


原文：PERMANENT STYLE LONDON
Navy stripe: The most useful tie

From a purely logical standpoint, the most useful tie you will own is a navy-
blue club stripe. Followed by a brown or burgundy in the same pattern.

The first reason is that a dark tie is more versatile than a pale tie. It is
more sober, more business-like and, outside of work, can play the supporting
role to more adventurous clothing combinations.

Second, the most useful dark colour it can be in is navy blue. As with suits,
which are most practical in the base colours of grey and blue, ties in either
navy blue or silver are versatile enough to produce an outfit for an interview
or presentation (try the classic blue suit and grey tie, or vice versa) and to
combine with other patterns and colours. Both go easily with every colour of
shirt (white, pink, blue and others) and most colours of suit.

Navy, however, is more practical at anchoring adventurous patterns and colours
in the suit or shirt. As explained in my theory on The Italian Background, a
blue tie and blue shirt is often used by gentlemen of that country to accompany
daring materials, such as tan gabardine, bold glen plaids and pale linens. Navy
is more useful than grey.

However, as the third leg of my argument, I would argue that a tie with a bold
stripe is more practical than a plain one. It can accompany three other patterns
(shirt, suit, handkerchief) or none. It can rise above patterned shirts and
fairly bold pinstriped suits, its strength of pattern and contrast being almost
impossible to match. And it is reserved and therefore multifaceted. Some may
argue that a large-pattern club tie, with crests for example, would be more
practical as it will never clash with the pattern of a shirt or suit; I would
argue its occasions for wear are slightly more limited.

For these reasons, a navy-blue club-stripe tie is most practical tie you can
own. If you only own one tie, make it this one. Of course, few men are likely
to be in that position. This is a slightly pointless argument. But it amuses me
and, I hope, convinces some of the importance of both navy and club stripes in
a tie collection.

By the way, the English call it a club stripe because men wore it in the colours
of their club to denote membership. A club tie normally means one with crests
rather than stripes. In the US, these ties are normally known as repp ties.
This, however, does not refer to the stripe but to the diagonal ribbing (from
which repp is a corruption) of the silk.

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