TOM FORD MENSWEAR - 品牌

今天看報紙的介紹順便整理給大家～

裡面有些圖片介紹可點選BLOG版本

或是直接到文章中提到的官方網站觀看

http://www.wretch.cc/blog/ology&article_id=4119669


TOM FORD MENSWEAR

時尚金童TOM FORD的男裝品牌即將在紐約與大家見面了,

這次TOM FORD回來會帶給大家多少的驚喜呢?

手工打造的男裝定製服會有多大的魅力?

這個時尚圈注目的焦點之星將在2007年4月12日正式發光,

更多訊息請連結至官方網站:http://www.tomford.com

關於TOM FORD的介紹,這裡就不多做敘述了,

有興趣的可以讀讀下面來自於VOGUE的介紹:

(需要翻譯的可以點選這裡

http://www.mytrans.com.tw/newMytrans/freeTrans/Freesent.aspx)

Born in Texas in 1962,

Tom Ford went on to become arguably

the most influential designer of the last decade.

Having initially trained as an actor,

he studied interior architecture at Parsons School

of Design until 1986, and went on to take positions

at Perry Ellis and Cathy Hardwick, before joining Gucci in 1990.

Ford was hired by Gucci's then creative director

Dawn Mello as chief women's ready-to-wear designer,

and later appointed design director.

When, in 1994, Gucci was acquired by a

Bahrain-based investment firm called Investcorp,

Ford was promoted to creative director and moved

to Milan with his partner, journalist Richard Buckley.

In his first year at the helm,

he was credited with putting the glamour back

into fashion introducing Halston-style velvet hipsters,

skinny satin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots.

In 1995, he brought in French stylist Carine Roitfeld

and photographer Mario Testino to create a series of new,

modern ad campaigns for the company. By 1999, the house,

which had been almost bankrupt when Ford joined,

was valued at about $4.3 billion.

"We didn't even have a photocopier at one stage," he admits.

"We didn't have any paper."

In 2000, Ford was named Best International Designer

at the first Awards in New York.

After Gucci bought a controlling stake

in Yves Saint Laurent, Ford was appointed creative director of YSL, too,

and communications director of the house's ready-to-wear business,

while continuing to design for Gucci. A mighty challenge certainly,

but Ford was adamant he could keep the two labels distinct.

"Historically, [Gucci] is Sophia Loren.

Yves Saint Laurent is Catherine Deneuve.

They're both sexy," he told British in February 2001.

"It's just that Gucci is a little more obvious than

Saint Laurent. The YSL woman might tie her boyfriend up

and drip hot wax on him before they have sex, for instance.

The Gucci woman is just going to have sex."

Ford believes that he owes his success not to talent,

but to his energy. He admits to sleeping just two

or three hours per night, keeping post-it notes beside

the bed in case he wakes up with an idea.

"There are many more talented designers than me,"

he once told an audience at the V&A in London.

"But I have a lot of drive and won't let it go."

He also credits his "mainstream" appeal. "I'm lucky,

I have mass-market tastes," he says. "When I say I like a shoe,

generally thousands of people will like it.

Thank God, because I would have been a very unhappy person

if I hadn't had this kind of success."

But others see it quite differently,

saying that Ford's secret is the combination

of a fine commercial sensibility

and a genuine feel for fashion: in his former role at Gucci,

he designed shoes, watches, luggage and men's

and womenswear as well as planning the company's

advertising campaigns and overseeing the development

of their two new fragrances, Envy and Rush.

Celebrity fans of Ford's style include Madonna,

Bianca Jagger and Trudie Styler

("Well, he's perfect, isn't he? He's like Sting,

he doesn't do small talk. He doesn't always

give very much of himself, so you want more.").

But Ford's ultimate sign of approval came from his mother,

who was heard to demand her YSL discount card after

watching his first runway show for the house.

In April 2004, Ford parted company with

the Gucci group after he and CEO Domenico de Sole,

who is credited as Ford's partner in the success story

that is Gucci, failed to agree with PPR bosses over creative control

of the Group. His final show for YSL was a celebrity-studded affair

as fans, including fellow designers Diane Von Furstenberg,

Valentino and Stella McCartney gathered to support

and celebrate Ford's work.

Having made no secret of the fact that he didn't expect

to be designing forever, Ford was rumoured to be making a beeline

for Hollywood when his Gucci reign came to an end.

Included on his list of lifetime to-dos are having children

(although work commitments and his longtime partner Richard Buckley

are currently conspiring against him) and making a film.

"That is the ultimate design project," he says.

"You don't just get to design what people wear,

but you design the whole world and whether characters

get to live or die. There is a permanence to film that fashion lacks."

這裡還有一篇來自中時生活關於此次TOM FORD男裝的簡介:

時尚金童Tom Ford個人男裝品牌將於13日在紐約開張！

本報記者跨海連線品牌公關，取得全台第一手資料。

時尚金童的魅力，中時讀者搶先看！

從04年離開GUCCI集團後，設計師Tom Ford「不務正業」好一陣子，

說要去拍電影，卻與雅詩蘭黛集團推出彩妝與香水，

並不時在W等國際雜誌和模特兒拍攝宛若交媾姿勢的性感照，

就是沒一件事與設計服裝有關。

但本周五(美國時間周四)，大家最熟悉的時尚金童回來了。

Tom Ford位於紐約麥迪遜與70街交叉口的男裝旗艦店選在這天開幕，

並於昨(10)日發佈首波全球新聞攻勢，在攝影名師David Bailey掌鏡下，

Tom Ford穿著合身剪裁三件式西裝，不制式的搭上圍巾，瀟灑自在，

代言自家男裝的手工精緻感。

■強調手工訂製

一件西服做七周

而手工訂製的美好經驗，就是他多達44頁文宣裡的重點。

Tom Ford說：「男裝最高境界一直是手工訂製，

男人造訪他的裁縫師，構築一件讓他在人群中突出的設計，

材質的重量、色彩的互搭，或是口袋置放的位置……完完全全符合他的個人需求。」

對男裝搞了一年多神秘的Tom Ford，這次大方公布手工製作細節，

他的主要合作品牌Ermenegildo Zegna，

幫他找來英國與義大利小工廠的手工師傅，

西裝幾乎到了全部一針一線縫製的地步，

連羊毛都強調是從18世紀英國機器紡織，西服量製過程高達25個步驟，

從下單到完成約7周。

鞋子部分，則是義大利拿波里家傳兩至三代的手工師傅製作，

選材、組合、拋光共需要花掉3周時間，拋光就得上六層，

讓鞋子有深淺光澤變化。

Tom Ford之前受「GQ Style」雜誌採訪時說：

「我想要你的夾克，就是你的專屬夾克，

不是那些已被20個好萊塢影星穿上身的那種，

我要反轉時尚遊戲規則，將過去注重服務的精神帶回來。」

■單價八萬起跳

百貨紛紛搶進貨

Tom Ford新品將於三層樓、9679平方英尺的大店展出，

10日晚間派對，將對媒體與零售商提前曝光，

11日的派對則給VIP級的大戶搶先下單。「紐約郵報」指出，

Tom Ford現成西裝約2500元起跳(台幣8萬多元)，

訂製西裝則超過4500美金(台幣近15萬元)，

但Bergdorf Goodman等頂級百貨甚至在沒有看到實品的狀況下就已經出手採購，

可說未演先轟動。

Tom Ford男裝計畫在未來3年另外開設米蘭、東京、洛杉磯等店，

有趣的是，這次紐約開設地點就選在Gucci大店的斜對面，

而在他擔任Gucci創意總監時重整的聖羅蘭也即將在同一區域開店，

將形成新歡舊愛打對台的場面。

■當年救活Gucci

能否再寫傳奇？

04年Tom Ford由於和Gucci鬧翻而離開，

在之前還曾向「WWD」放話說：「沒有我，Gucci會很慘！」

結果Gucci雖然短暫陣痛，卻因為挖掘出新任創意總監Frida Giannini這塊璞玉，

不但沒有更慘，反而蒸蒸日上，

這也使得Tom Ford更需要藉由男裝證明自己聲勢依舊，不會給老東家看扁。

外界關注的，也就是這位時尚金童能否維持當年喊水會凍的超強氣勢，

在Gucci集團的十年間，他注入性感精神，

把破產邊緣的該牌變成03年業績高達30億元的時尚王國，

他將包包當成品牌發展重點，也使得全球女性眼光從服裝轉換到名牌包，

種種影響都讓他成為最佳行銷典範，而Tom Ford的訂製男裝，

則將決定他的精彩故事，是否還能再添一筆新的傳奇。


引用資料:VOGUE:http://www.vogue.co.uk/whos_who/Tom_Ford/

中時生活http://kuso.cc/1tka


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