阿蒂仙之香 Dzing! - 香水
By Wallis
at 2012-04-01T00:02
at 2012-04-01T00:02
Table of Contents
贈送–Dzing! (by L’Artisan Parfumeur 阿蒂仙之香)
目測容量剩約原瓶的十分之一
方式–此篇推文(或箭頭)回“Dzing!”/掛號郵寄/獲贈者不需負擔任何費用
條件–無/獲贈者可自行決定要不要發表心得
時間–即刻起至4/2(一)23:59截止/此後推文不算
開獎–將資格ID放進電腦隨機挑選名額一名/
會另文通知獲贈者並來信告知寄送地址
附言–阿蒂仙官網還有售Dzing!/對很多只聽聞Dzing!而沒聞過的香民
以下擠出個人小小心得/怕影響未體驗之樂趣請跳過。
L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! (1999) ★★★★
香調︰Oriental–golden wood, toffee, leather, musks
調香師︰Olivia Giacobetti
第一次聞Dzing!,像是踏進黑暗的洞穴,味道很奇怪,心裡感到恐怖。
完全說不出那像什麼味道,就連想要回想的念頭都沒有,
只有戰敗夾著尾巴逃了出來,喔,勉強說來,唯一能提起的是皮革味…。
就這麼與Dzing!相處了幾個夏冬,天熱時噴冷時也噴,對著它開始也有幾分感觸。
有人說長時間與一瓶香水鬥陣,才更能感受它的內外與變化。
其實香味理應就那樣,倒是不同人使用、不同的環境天候使用,
或是不同場合與心情使用,才是變化最大的主因。
但,前提是,這得是一瓶值得案在梳妝台前,不時可以細細感受的香水。
而Dzing!便是。
品味香水有各種方法,比如說可以單純喜歡材料、質感,
或是它的深度、廣度和維持,又或是手法。
所謂的自身喜好也會隨著不同的教育、文化背景有所不同,
有些人視香水如內衣,另有一些可以仿射到音樂、繪畫、建築物上。
無論如何,如果能認同不同欣賞觀點的出發點所產生的變化,
那麼一個人,依附時間軸不斷前進,更長的生活歷練下,對香水難免有更細膩的看法。
Dzing!的靈感來自於馬戲團裏的歡樂、嘻笑聲音,馬戲團的場景、味道等等。
調香師是Olivia Giacobetti,這瓶香水無疑為她與阿蒂仙之香的代表作。
那麼,Dzing!聞起來像什麼呢?幾年來聽到好多種不同說法,
比如說 Luca Turin 在“Perfumes: the A-Z guide”一書中形容像硬紙板(cardboard),
讓我聞到Dzing!的強者我同學說︰「動物園莫名生物的糞便。」
可是歡樂馬戲團?
我自己也不覺得,那種氛圍不如說是光怪陸離,歡樂後的收場與寂寞。
好奇心殺死貓。
最先聞到一些皮革,皮革本身香濃不帶甜是較帶深度的氣味,
香水中皮革聞起來可以很變態(癡漢)、性感(皮鞭),可以很摩登也可以很東方,
也有抽象或隱晦的例子,不幸的是,Dzing!裹的皮革難以分類,
它…太奇怪,穿插著橡膠氣味,並非讓人感到舒服的氣味,像是…踩陷爛泥的雨鞋。
一類深沉的皮革怪物。
酸的花朵與暖動物性香調、燒燙的焦糖口味隨著冒出。
酸是水楊酸混合舊紙箱的氣味,紙箱受潮後變的軟嫩,
拿本舊書放鼻尖快速的翻動書頁飄出的氣味,那股舊酸味,緩慢地靠上些辛辣麝貓香,
不要忘了加點焦糖,頂先的皮革稍退了些但還有剩。
好了,我打賭,如果你是第一次聞到Dzing!,你底心會很歡樂,訝異到張著口呆若木雞。
Luca老頭在書裏形容Dzing!像是硬紙板,牛皮包裝紙(kraft wrapping paper),
或許有幾分道理。不過要參透並不容易,我嘗試去聞新製的硬紙板、牛皮紙、西卡紙等,
我感覺Dzing!怪的多了,還不只像不像的問題。
Luca老頭還指出它的戲法來自於lignin而接近vanillin。
或許簡單地說,這瓶香水藏著頭野獸對你笑,然後去逛二手舊書攤。
木香與那股柔軟而溫暖的辛辣麝貓,停留很久,尤其是天冷時來用,
特別渡過了一段奇怪的時期後穩定下來,淡淡的,卻有濃濃的暗色氣氛。
好像聞到“性感”啊。
再隨著時間跑過,心情平靜下來,嗅覺竟已認同這香味好性感,
我只能佩服這真是淡淡的,已是打的火熱動物香,和本能的誘惑。
漸漸跑出(美食)香草帶點東方木質調–安息香與香膏,
香草搭配香豆素,有帶著甜木質與香膏的味道,有種圓熟豐富的質感,
放置時間很長的萃取液,增添不少美味,
叮咚!聞後頗想吃烤麵包再抽根Black Stone的香草煙。
無論如何,Dzing!真是瓶奇妙的好香水,前面提過,在不同時間點使用富饒趣味。
長久下來好奇心已不再後,回過來想,那個馬戲團的意象似乎真有那種感覺,
從起初的感到荒謬,到買票進場,到自己也是其中一員…。
就像它的名字–Dzing!,就像外盒的圖案–女人與老虎,
獨特、可以不斷嘗試並不斷旋轉的香味。
--
Tags:
香水
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at 2012-03-31T17:17
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By Susan
at 2012-03-31T03:52
at 2012-03-31T03:52
Jacadi淡香水
By Madame
at 2012-03-31T00:39
at 2012-03-31T00:39
請問bodyshop白麝香味道是不是變了?
By Jacob
at 2012-03-30T23:41
at 2012-03-30T23:41
香水vs.食慾
By Kumar
at 2012-03-30T14:04
at 2012-03-30T14:04