夏天的西裝... - 西裝
By Carol
at 2014-04-15T18:39
at 2014-04-15T18:39
Table of Contents
※ 引述《impulse (接近無限透明的藍)》之銘言:
人生何處不回文,回文總在機場中~~~(菸...)
https://www.facebook.com/OFFICEDANDY
原文43, 除了不敢刪的以外....XD
趁這個機會問一下:
1. 最近在看書,有提到畫板型的時候會留縫份跟鬆份;縫份留縫製空間,鬆份
則依裁縫決定,按照不同部位量身結果,身材變化,製作過程需要計算或
經驗而得
我想問的是在不同布料時,是否在留縫份跟鬆份會有差異? 春夏比較薄的
布料我猜測也許需要先車邊,不然布料容易晃動,所以可能需要另外留
空間? 或是在縫製上有甚麼特殊考量?
2. http://vimeo.com/andrewyamato/videos 最近有更新的~
我的問題是,在影片中會特意去用熨斗塑造形狀的部分包含肩頰骨、胸前、
袖子、腰身、上領片。那不同的布料在加工過程中的特性又如何? 因為
近春夏,春夏的料子會混麻、絲、棉等,我知道棉跟麻的彈性不如羊毛,
所以在加工上也會有不同考量囉? 另外在同一塊布料,或同一根線裡面
會不會出現加工後不等長的變化? 那根據這個布料的不同,在做版型的
時候會另外調整嗎? 還是其實差別不大?
3. 第三個問題跟布料比較無關~ 在看 Davide Taub 的blog 上面有放很多
他做過的版型;我比較外行,只看出來為什麼他的側身都另外切出來
一-兩片。在書上面看到的都是前片後片,可是他分成三-四片? 這種做法
很常見嗎? 有特別的好處? 比如對花? 在 Rory Duffy 的影片裡他也是用
前後兩片~
參考
http://ppt.cc/D3sV
http://davidetaub.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/curved-seam-harris-tweed
-sports-jacket.html
話說有人可以推薦布料的書嗎?......^^||b
--
人生何處不回文,回文總在機場中~~~(菸...)
https://www.facebook.com/OFFICEDANDY
原文43, 除了不敢刪的以外....XD
→ whitestripe:話說我收這篇到精華區的時候 發現板上布料文不成 04/15 16:24
→ whitestripe:比例的少 大家可以多分享布料的經驗阿 04/15 16:25
→ whitestripe:或是不同品牌布料的訂做心得之類的 04/15 16:26
趁這個機會問一下:
1. 最近在看書,有提到畫板型的時候會留縫份跟鬆份;縫份留縫製空間,鬆份
則依裁縫決定,按照不同部位量身結果,身材變化,製作過程需要計算或
經驗而得
我想問的是在不同布料時,是否在留縫份跟鬆份會有差異? 春夏比較薄的
布料我猜測也許需要先車邊,不然布料容易晃動,所以可能需要另外留
空間? 或是在縫製上有甚麼特殊考量?
2. http://vimeo.com/andrewyamato/videos 最近有更新的~
我的問題是,在影片中會特意去用熨斗塑造形狀的部分包含肩頰骨、胸前、
袖子、腰身、上領片。那不同的布料在加工過程中的特性又如何? 因為
近春夏,春夏的料子會混麻、絲、棉等,我知道棉跟麻的彈性不如羊毛,
所以在加工上也會有不同考量囉? 另外在同一塊布料,或同一根線裡面
會不會出現加工後不等長的變化? 那根據這個布料的不同,在做版型的
時候會另外調整嗎? 還是其實差別不大?
3. 第三個問題跟布料比較無關~ 在看 Davide Taub 的blog 上面有放很多
他做過的版型;我比較外行,只看出來為什麼他的側身都另外切出來
一-兩片。在書上面看到的都是前片後片,可是他分成三-四片? 這種做法
很常見嗎? 有特別的好處? 比如對花? 在 Rory Duffy 的影片裡他也是用
前後兩片~
參考
http://ppt.cc/D3sV
http://davidetaub.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/curved-seam-harris-tweed
-sports-jacket.html
話說有人可以推薦布料的書嗎?......^^||b
--
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