台北 金興西服 - 西上裝 - 西裝
By Sarah
at 2018-09-21T21:10
at 2018-09-21T21:10
Table of Contents
*不想看廢話只想看圖可以直接點instagram連結*
(https://www.instagram.com/archiv_des_lebens)
------------------------------------------------------------
這次要跟大家分享的是一件我自己覺得蠻特別的外套,
起因是在網路上看圖時,看到有人分享無胸省(front darts)
卻仍然保有美麗線條而非水桶腰的西裝,
這種工法在台灣似乎比較少見,就千萬拜託邱師傅和游師傅,
看願不願意挑戰看看!?
除了不做front darts,這次的配置大體上跟上次是一樣的,
全無墊肩、全單無內裡、3-roll-2、大貼袋,
基於個人需求,就是偏休閒的配置。
金興西服的剪裁、做工真的屬於上乘,我也特別拍了一些細節跟大家分享:
全單:
https://imgur.com/j1sefcD
https://imgur.com/CISrtw6
扣眼:
https://imgur.com/3hrAvMW
https://imgur.com/GYe1r3P
https://imgur.com/hv1I1e5
https://imgur.com/4pbx7wJ
這次我用的布料是HFW的Portofino 100%竹纖維布料,
竹纖維布料的特性真的很有趣,有非常軟的觸感接近Cashmere,也不易皺,
透氣性也算ok,比較大的缺點是這塊布290g在台灣多少還是有點熱。
傷眼實穿:
1st fitting
https://imgur.com/FYGly8r
2nd fitting
https://imgur.com/SM3mDx7
成品
https://imgur.com/eqIdtKD
https://imgur.com/IYzT1h9
https://imgur.com/hNGprwV
基本上在網路上看到的分享,去除前胸省最大的好處是,
可以讓上裝正面更「純淨」。
這本不是特別困難的技術,但相對而言的風險就是變成水桶腰西裝。
所以我也特別跟師父溝通,希望還是可以做出腰身和西裝線條感,
師傅也老實跟我說,或許做出來的美感跟人家比起來還是可能差了點,
我也跟師父說不用擔心啦,我知道這不是常見的做法,失敗的風險我自己負擔。
(但事實證明師傅只是謙虛啦)
據師傅的說法,要在去除胸省的情況下,避免過於水桶腰,
是要仰賴剪裁、縫製和燙工,
所以我們也要欣賞一下師傅製作的英姿哈哈。
https://imgur.com/2G64ldD
https://imgur.com/oKkGeQP
https://imgur.com/dOiHi6R
https://imgur.com/oPeYGhh
結果而言,這件上裝我自己非常滿意,
由於是做純色無對格或對線問題,無胸省的特色無法明顯展現,
不過有這次的經驗,或許下次可以更大膽嘗試。
也希望大家給台灣工藝多一點信心。
--
Tags:
西裝
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