兩年前訂做的拿破倫西裝 - 西裝
By Quintina
at 2017-11-10T20:42
at 2017-11-10T20:42
Table of Contents
個人認為這件上裝偏短不算太短,未及傳統紳士裝長度但離休閒西裝的範圍還有點遠,
另外我認為這套西裝不適合看蓋臀範圍,可能應該用雙手虎口的位置判斷長度
(請恕我禮貌的不認同hello大的長度觀點)
原因稍後補充。
綜合而言我覺得西裝外套還ok也沒有到慘,問題可能反而是下半身,
但原Po主要問的是上衣長度所以就先不多談。請看圖:
https://imgur.com/kFw7Nae
會造成視覺上短的主因我認為是腰位以下的剪裁配置,
透過輔助線可以看到首扣的位置並不在腰位上,
這雖然不是什麼嚴重問題但很少見,
*讓人聯想到好幾年前的 D&G https://imgur.com/F7xjKo2
而且扣位和腰位(上衣正面最窄處)有一段差距
導致第二顆釦子、口袋視覺上都跼促的擠在一起,我認為這是看起來短的主要原因。
至於我認為實際不短的原因是下襬和最低手手掌的虎口處大致切齊,
雖然原Po有表示手的長度不長但我從圖片上看的手長對全身比例還不至於差太多,
有的話也是「偏短」而不到「太短」。
再說明一下蓋臀的判斷很可能不適合的原因:
1. 正面自然站立看到疑似皮帶頭在第二顆釦的下方露出
2. 如果依照照片蓋住 3/4 臀部那剩下的腿長幾乎要被吃光了?
3. 褲檔最下方(老二的盡頭?)離手指有一大段距離
https://imgur.com/KEId0oK
根據以上我覺得下半身比例很可能失真,不適合用蓋臀判斷。
這邊再附幾張照片輔助一下我對於 腰位vs扣位、下襬vs虎口、褲檔vs手指 的配置看法:
https://imgur.com/66ggkkh
https://imgur.com/2lNSw6R
https://imgur.com/zQqS6SI
https://imgur.com/a0lXs1k
https://imgur.com/u28Bgw2
https://imgur.com/kukvjDZ 最後偷推一下h大的淘寶禮服,文章我覺得超讚XD
以上是小弟的看法。
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All Comments
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