Number (N)ine 09-10 A/W: A Closed Feeling - 潮服

Number (N)ine 09-10 A/W collection: A Closed Feeling

http://www.wretch.cc/blog/Back2British/14607174


當每個人(包括我在內)都在猜測宮下貴裕2009年秋冬會以哪一個搖滾巨星為發想創作時，
儘管依舊承襲Number (N)ine春夏與秋冬的連結性，
不過宮下貴裕拋開了以搖滾巨星於創作靈感上的包袱，將主題轉為凝視自己的內心世界。
09-10 A/W collection取名為"A Closed Feeling"
即在說明他在旅行期間將自己鎖在飯店房間所感受到的一切，
服裝濃厚的黑暗色彩意指幽暗狹隘的空間，而將頭部隱密的蓋住帶有省思之意，
多層交疊穿搭的衣物呈現複雜繁瑣的思緒，
最後脫掉古世紀的包袱
(也象徵將以往對於設計的既定印象拋棄)變成鬱靜的男子豁然開朗般的重生。

儘管沒有鮮明的印象是對於哪位搖滾巨星的緬懷，
秀上的背景音樂也換成了輕慢僅有吉他伴奏的民謠，
那是來自於美國的知名民謠歌手Jackson C. Frank的Milk and Honey一曲，
Jackson C. Frank卒於1999年而他最廣為人知的歌曲為I Want to Be Alone ，
如果硬要說2009年秋冬設計宮下貴裕向哪位喜愛的搖滾明星致敬的話，
或許可以說是他對Jackson C. Frank歌曲中所透露的強烈孤寂感有相同深刻感觸。

"I want to be alone
I need to touch each stone
Face the grave that I have grown
I want to be Alone
Before all the days are gone
And darker walls are bent and torn
To pass the time of those who mourn"

這段歌詞可以隱約看見"A Closed Feeling"這系列設計的深遂涵義，
密閉空間靜思，細縫中發現微小的光亮，重新發現人生與創作的新生命。


Milk and Honey

Gold and silver is the autumn
Soft and gentle are her skies
Yes and No are the answers
Written in my true love's eyes

Autumn's leaving, winter's coming
I think that I'll be moving on
I've got to leave him and find another
I've got to sing my heart's true song

Round and round the burning circle
All the seasons, one, two, and three
Autumn leaves with the winter
Spring is born and wanders free

Gold and silver burned my autumns
All too soon they'd fade and die
And then there were no others
Milk and honey were their lies




看完Number (N)ine 09-10 A/W 秀上一系列的照片之後，
更開始期待2010的春夏標榜著重生的宮下貴裕又會帶給我們驚奇的感受。


秀上影片:
http://www.dazeddigital.com/Video/Default.aspx?CategoryId=0&VideoID=105

秀上照片:
照片來源:
http://men.style.com





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